I am writing this on a lovely sunny deck in Nelson, whereas I should be tramping towards the Richmond Ranges. Are you sitting comfortably? Then let the story begin....
I started the mainland on the Queen Charlotte Track which was rather a shock due to the hordes of people, especially hung over Scottish backpackers. All I will say is that I am now an expert at putting up $20 tents from the Warehouse, which did not look so flash in the morning after the overnight torrential downpour.
I spent a lovely break on my friends boat in Havelock where I managed to get more injuries than whilst tramping whilst tripping onto the boat, dropping my shoes into the water and banging my toe then spending a fruitless time trying to locate a missing sock. Luckily this was not my new smart wool socks generously given to me by my friend Emma along with a complete black bamboo ninja outfit. Top tip: best not to walk through a busy camp ground and Marina whilst wearing the said outfit that makes me look like a stick of liquorice.
Many, many thanks to my friend Mads who has given me an uber light down jacket to replace the one lost down a gully and to her extremely generous contribution to the Many Steps for MS budget. To Paul, Sue, Emma and Matt many many thanks for the lovely meals I am a new woman and the bangers and mash will remain writ large in my memory especially when I'm fighting Richard for a spare peanut in the ranges.
The Pelorus Track, apart from a horror section from Havelock (thanks for the company Ems I hope the extreme sunburn/blisters and bad back have cleared up!) follows the river in a string of superlatives. The greener than green water seems to invite you in and then says ha ha tricked you as you jump into the freezing depths with a squadron of sand flies for company.
I walked into the Rocks hut after a night of very heavy rain and was met with a hut full of TA trampers who had created an aroma that makes the term fetid seem like a breath of fresh air...
I spoke with three women of my age (after they had crawled out of their respective pits at 10am) and found out that one of them had a serious knee 'injury'. They did not have any painkillers so I gave her some from my mobile pharmacy.For reasons best known to themselves and possibly a psychiatrist, they had walked from the previous hut despite the woman being unable to bend the knee and being in considerable pain. I remember reading their comment in the hut book wondering why they had not just walked back out to the road at the start of the track. They had all started the TA on the QC track and had not the North Island or indeed, it transpired, any training or planning. Thus, although they had told a friend when they were due out they had not realised that the friend would more than likely contact the Police/DOC if they were late.The final piece of information that made my head swivel, Damon like, was that the 'injury' was in fact arthritis and obviously pre-existing. Even scarier than this revelation was that the two 'fit' women were going to carry on bravely with the TA Trail after they had made it out of one of the most benign tracks on the whole of the TA with their injured mate.
As there were several young TA walkers in the hut I suggested that, given their were no river crossings, that they tramp out to tell the women's friend that they were going to be very late as they were already more than a day over due. As there were no takers for the attractive prospect of a 5 hour tramp in the pissing rain and gales I decided to take my chances outside rather than in the toxic hut. Also, due to the level of stupidity I had experienced I was liable to break my brand new year resolution of trying, oh trying oh so very hard not to be judgemental....
After a lovely walk to the top of Dun Mountain in the mist I made the descent to Matai Valley dam, pausing only briefly to talk to a French guy wearing only budgie smugglers and his raincoat looking for a cave...
The sun arrived, hurrah, and with it a lift into Nelson where I phoned the contact person and left it up to them to sort out their friends total stupidity, incompetence and selfishness. Mmmm, I feel I may have broken that resolution already...I am enjoying an unexpected break with Carol who is Richard's sister and he will join me for the Richmond Alpine Track, and then through to Lewis Pass so this will be the last post for a wee while.
Ka Kite
Rache
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