Te Araroa - Many Steps for MS
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Te Araroa - Many Steps for MS
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Dear North Island, it's not you, it's me....

31/12/2015

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Farewell, adieu,ka kite ano, goodbye North Island, it's been the best of times and the worst of times and it's a far, far better place I go to now (apologies to Charles Dickens).

After the final stretch via scenic Poirua and a failed attempt by a group of weary, chocolate starved ta trampers to get free samples from the Whitakers factory I made it to sunny Wellington (yes, really). I spent Christmas eve and morning with my old mate Andrea and her family then met up with some TA mates to eat prawns, drink beer and go wharf jumping (it's officially my new favorite sport).

Resisting the temptation to do a papal kiss of the South Island at Picton I made do with a coat hanger smile when I saw the Marlborough sounds.  I am having a wee break before I start the Queen Charlotte Track (main danger: too many tourists on the track). 

In light of the fact that it's a new year very soon here are the things that I lost and gained from this year in the North Island:

Lost

My anger at Gerry Brownlee, all the National government and EQC, Fletchers EQR and various cowboy builders.

My lovely super lightweight down jacket down a gully in the Tararuas

Gained

A new sense of perspective on pretty much everything and hence my mojo

Te Araroa SOBO mates  (through trampers, south bound)


I picked up some mail in Wellington and read the messages from my friends that they gave me before I left as I knew that I would need them about now.

Highlights:

Don't come home until you've finished (Sue), relentless forward progress (Paul) and press on with your day but not always (Mads).

So, I can't expect anyone who may want to help me on this trip to have psychic powers so here is a few things that I am fairly desperately in need of for my South Island section.

Any kind of lightweight down or other jacket

An uber lightweight camping pot, that is, titanium or similar

I have been given a generous discount by Macpac for some clothing but my funds/budget are in somewhat of an extreme cash flow crisis at present. Anybody that knows me will realise that I am expert at living on the whiff of half an oily rag but I have used up my reserves with ferry fares, water taxi, food drops, post, camping fees etc.

So, I know that I am all about raising awareness for Multiple Sclerosis but to do that I have to actually survive in one piece on the trail so if anybody can help either with the above or a donation to my south island fund I would be very appreciative. I don't want to trouble my gold sponsors, Mr and Mrs Paul and Sue Roberts yet again for support as they have both helped out so very much thus far.

Thanks folks, as Adele would say, see you on the other side....RachXX

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Spat out in pieces by the torrid Tararuas

22/12/2015

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The Tararuas have a sign at the beginning saying, do not tramp alone, this is a dangerous environment with extreme weather conditions and challenging terrain. Luckily, when I was trying not to succumb to the early stages of hypothermia at the first hut Stefan walked in smiling and made me a hot drink as I couldn't use my hands. In his indomitable Aussie way he said hey mate you look a bit rough. I have to be honest here, it was hands down totally irresponsible and  inexcusably arrogant of me to presume that I could handle the Tararuas on my own. Stefan and I eventually carried on to the next hut which had a stove and we met up with several other Ta through trampers. Five very long days later we were spat out, deflated of every breath of energy and motivation but buoyed by the very best sense of camaraderie and support that I have experienced to date on the TA. 

In the hut on the final night I looked around me at my fellow Tararua survivors, Katie with a very  pale, exhausted face after injuring her knee badly, myself still with shaking hands and a feeling of extreme nausea after an epic head first fall down a ridge, even the ever strong Stefan was quiet after days of gale winds and freezing rain. There was a tangible air of relief that we had all made it out.


After this I had to attempt to hitch to the Palmerston North MS Society Christmas lunch and after a rather long time getting myself together in the toilet I think I was reasonably normal. Kia Kaha and apologies for writing a rather more eviscerating account than normal.  I am staying with my TA friend Lois in Wellington to locate my lost confidence and many thanks to her and her lovely family.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        
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The Bi Polar Wanganui River and running a marathon

14/12/2015

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I got my first view of the mighty Whanganui whilst trying to tramp the torrid 42 Traverse  (see last post!) and it really is everything a river should be: Wet, full of sweeping bends, delightful eddies and steep banks, with the gorge-framed bush seeming to say “nothing of interest here, paddle on.” Ha but I’m not that easily fooled,  as I had seen lots of camouflaged tin shacks when I was yet again going to be benighted on my tramp.

I was paddling with Sam, a 26 year old from Glasgow who is a breath of fresh air in the world of TA trampers. She would no more give herself a trail name than she would spend a day without swearing, drinking or attempting to hook up with various other younger TA people. Apparently there is a Facebook page (closed to us oldies, obviously) specifically for them all to arrange their routes (sic).
Sam decided that I needed a lesson in direct action (punching), in case I encountered trouble on the trail. Whilst this did jar somewhat with Quaker leanings and the surroundings of the peaceful river, I did learn a lot. Fortunately I was able to share my new knowledge of choke holds, thanks to Stefan the Aussie cop.

I don’t know how to convey how the Whanganui makes my fingers tingle as my mum would say:  A palpable dove-tailing of humans and impenetrable bush. The Bridge to Nowhere made me think of all the poor buggers who were being thanked for being Anzacs in a war in a different hemisphere by being gifted plots of land covered in gorse, surrounded by massive cliffs that lead to the only access on the river. Possibly this would have been successful if the returning soldiers were as physically and mentally strong as they had been when they first volunteered. Sadly they were missing limbs, suffering from shell shock and I’m guessing that their moods matched that of the river: Namely, a flow that can change from gentle stream to raging torrent in seconds with no precursor
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.I have two beautiful brothers, Alistair and Martin who are geographers and hence know all the technical aspects of rivers. All I know is that rivers have personality and the Wanganui is both introvert and extrovert and I for one am totally smitten.
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This trip is not merely a linear journey concerned only with kilometres-covered and distance-travelled. I try very hard to talk with anyone who has a pulse about the MS Society and how MS impacts on families. My parents spent countless years driving over the Kirkstone Pass in the Lake District (UK) to visit my brother Ian at ‘Holehird’, the Leonard Cheshire care home. This was not an easy trip in winter and indeed as I have been enjoying the Wanganui this week my parents and my younger brother and his family have been dealing with the flooded rivers that have afflicted NW England.

To reach Wanganui, I used a cunning combination of kayak, bike and walk. To mix things up a little I decided to exchange 40km of highway walk by attempting to run the Wanganui marathon. Here’s the thing, it turns out that tramping is not the most appropriate training for running a marathon! Luckily I met up with my mate Norman, who is chasing 200 marathons along with his posse of yellow-clad beauties. Norman is the most smiley person I have ever met. Among numerous other virtues, he also has a big lolly supply.

 I managed to get a few minutes at prize-giving to talk about my trip but during the many hours on the course my bright orange MS shirt had already sparked many comments.
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Talking of which, THANKS SO VERY MUCH for all of the lovely, supporting comments from people, which I am trying to both reply and live up to!
 
Onwards towards Palmerston North where I have a lunch date with the local MS crew....
 
Ka Kite
RachXX
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Falling apart at the seams live on Estonian TV......

13/12/2015

9 Comments

 
I seem to be literally falling apart at the seams! My socks have disintegrated and my shorts have lots of new vent holes.  This is mirroring a trend on the trail with trampers dropping like flies, either quitting or going to the South Island. 

The main issues seem to be the track is not a trail, getting lost all the time (ok, ok I know YOU can see the markers!) ...and the endless road walking and muddy forests with no views (I think the weather and consequent state of the track seems to be getting me down – I guess it had to happen at some stage!)

​After yet another miscalculation I ended up at the Pahautea hut after dark and in the rain.  Luckily there were 3 other trail trampers there –whoohoo, a social event!  Devon from Colorado who had every piece of Uber-lightweight gear imaginable – Jealous much? – well, yes, I am!  I seem to be the only TA walker who does not have a MSR Hubba (solo) or Hubba Hubba (2-person) tent.   There are always a lot of questions like “Is it a Hubba/Hubba Hubba/weight/extra ground sheet?” when TA trampers camp out.   Meanwhile I put up my non-Hubba Macpac. In reality, I love it… despite being a third of the price it still manages to keep me dry.

Having met Stefan and Anneli on the track we tramped through mud, slips,steep hills, no signs and no track towards Waitomo.   After a relaxing 11 hour/40 k day we pitched our tent on a slightly flat bit of forest.   A lack of water during the day meant my hands were swollen up badly (it’s wet – why was I not drinking more??).   Anneli has a Go Pro from Estonian TV as she is the first Estonian to do the trail and so is trying to make a documentary.I may be on Estonian TV – Finally famous?

A small group of us rugged TA trampers met up in a hut on the Timber Trail to celebrate 1000ks completed – whoop whoop! This is far more social than I ever imagined!   There were some guys there who were “doing some weeding” with very high-spec quad bikes and lots of food and beer which they shared – nice one guys you are the best!!

Te Kuiti was confusing, until I realised that it’s very cleverly been frozen in time as a 1950s town as a social experiment, with no input from the present day, aside from a few confused TA walkers.   Nobody who visits will ever leave without knowing who ‘Pinetree’ Meads is – We are truly a rugby-mad nation!

After another 40k mudslide covered in gorse that is the 42nd Traverse, I ended up in the rain and mist walking to the first hut on the Tongariro section.  I snapped a pic for you so you can experience the same wonderful views as me:  
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Doc rangers were refunding hut tickets as the weather was so bad many people including me turned back to do it again another day.
Watch out for the next exciting (and hopefully mud-free) installment!!
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Ka Kite
Rache X

(PS Currently in back-tracking mode but have finally managed to score kayak hire for convoluted Wanganui River section, yay!)
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    Te Araroa 
    is New Zealand's trail. The 3000km route stretches from Cape Reinga in the North of New Zealand to Bluff in the South and was officially opened in December 2011.

    I am tramping the trail, North-South, starting in November 2015 and finishing in March/April 2016. I hope to raise awareness of the great work done by the Multiple Sclerosis Society and also to raise some funds for them.

    I will be carrying my own tent and supplies but I would very much appreciate any help that people could give me e.g.:
    • Food drops
    • Join me on sections on the tramp
    • Donate any food or equipment before I leave
    On the left you will find blog posts describing the trails, tribulations and triumphs along my journey.


    Author

    My name is Rachel Kirkbride, I am 49 years old and live by the sea in Christchurch. Despite the fact that I have a very wonky eye that makes me seem like Calamity Jane at times, I love spending time in backcountry NZ.

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    Where am I now?

    (Position at 11th March 14:30 - BLUFF - That's it..0km to go!!!)
    ​​
    I'm currently en-route from Cape Reinga, the northern end of my (walking) journey. The end will be 3,000 km (1,860 miles) to the south. 
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